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FIELD NOTE
TS/FLD/06Filed 21 July 2026 · amended 30 August 2026

Ghost Hunting Equipment: What to Buy First

Fifty-two years of requisition slips, sorted by how much use each item turned out to be. The top of the list costs about four pounds and nobody ever puts it on a website.

8 min read

The Survey has been issuing equipment since 1974 and getting most of it back broken. What follows is the order in which it would spend money if it were starting again, which is not the order anybody selling equipment would suggest.

1. A notebook, and a pen that works in the cold

Four pounds. The single most useful item the Survey has ever issued, by a distance that is not close, and the one most likely to be missing from a group that owns two thousand pounds of instruments.

Everything else on this list produces a number. A number that is not written down beside a time, a position and what you were doing is not a measurement, it is an anecdote about a light. Six months later the notebook is the only part of the night that still exists.

Get one with a hard cover and squared paper, because you will draw plans in it. Take two pens. Ballpoints fail in the cold and pencils do not.

2. A carbon monoxide detector

A domestic audible alarm is a few pounds. A read-out instrument that shows parts per million is better and still cheap. Either is a serious instrument and neither is optional.

A domestic CO alarm with a digital read-outCarbon monoxide detector · £15–£40

Buy one with a number on it rather than one that only beeps. An alarm tells you when a building has become dangerous; a read-out tells you that a room is at 30 ppm and climbing, which is the reading that gets you out of the building an hour earlier. Check it has an EN 50291 or UL 2034 mark, check the sensor's stated life — they expire, usually at seven or ten years — and test it on arrival at every site.

3. A red-filtered torch

Your dark adaptation takes about twenty minutes to build and about one second of white light to destroy. A group with white torches spends the entire night in a state of permanent partial blindness and then reports seeing things at the edge of vision, which is what partially blind people do.

Red light preserves rod sensitivity well enough to keep most of it. A head torch with a red mode, or a plain torch with a red filter, is a few pounds and changes the quality of everything you see all night.

A head torch with a true red modeRed-filtered torch · £10–£30

Head-mounted, so both hands stay on the notebook. The thing to check is that the red mode comes on first rather than after a white flash while it cycles modes — a torch that blinks white before it goes red has destroyed the dark adaptation of everybody facing you and you will do it twenty times a night.

4. A thermometer with a proper air probe

Not an infrared gun. An infrared thermometer measures the temperature of a surface, from whatever spot size its optics give it at that distance, weighted by that surface's emissivity — which for a mirror, a polished floor, a window or a stainless steel handle is wrong by a long way. It cannot measure air at all.

A cold spot in the air is a claim about air. To test it you want a thermocouple or a thermistor probe with a small thermal mass, given time to equilibrate. It is slower and much less photogenic and it is the only one of the two that answers the question. There is a whole note on this because it is the single most common instrument error in the hobby.

A thermocouple thermometer with a wire air probeAir thermometer · £20–£60

A K-type meter with a fine bead probe. The specification that matters is the probe's thermal mass, not the meter's decimal places: a thin exposed-junction probe settles in a few seconds, a stainless-clad food probe takes most of a minute, and a minute is longer than most claimed cold spots last. Ignore anything sold as an infrared gun for this job.

5. A recorder that records uncompressed

Not a phone voice memo, which will hand you a compressed file. A lossy codec is a perceptual model: it works by deciding which parts of the signal you cannot hear and deleting them, and the first thing it deletes is quiet broadband detail thirty decibels down — which is the entire subject of the exercise.

You want WAV, 44.1 or 48 kHz, 16-bit or better, and you want the automatic gain control off if the device will let you turn it off. A recorder with AGC will pump its own noise floor up and down around every event and give you an evening of artefacts to mark.

A handheld recorder that writes WAVUncompressed audio recorder · £60–£120

The entry-level handhelds from the usual three manufacturers are all fine and have been for a decade. Check three things before you buy: that it records WAV and not only MP3, that the automatic gain control can be switched off, and that it takes ordinary batteries — a cold building flattens a lithium cell fast and a recorder that dies at 2 a.m. has recorded nothing.

The Survey's minimum kit, with what each item is actually for
Notebook and two pensThe only permanent record. £4.
Carbon monoxide detectorSafety. Not negotiable in any heated or fuel-burning building. £15–40.
Red torchPreserves dark adaptation. £10.
Air-probe thermometerMeasures air, which is what a cold spot is a claim about. £20–60.
Uncompressed recorderCaptures the noise floor a codec would delete. £60–120.
Three-axis EMF meterField strength, if the specification states a frequency band. £120+.
TripodRemoves handling noise and makes two frames comparable. £30.
Tape and a planMarks fixed positions so a measurement can be repeated. £2.

6. Then, and only then, an EMF meter

The one everyone buys first. There is a whole note on what these measure and the short version is: buy a three-axis instrument, read its frequency band before you read its marketing, and expect a number rather than a mood.

The five-LED instruments are not frauds and they do work. They are single-axis, coarse, and tuned to your mains wiring, and in an old building they will spend the night telling you about the lighting circuit.

7. Cameras, last

A camera is the item people most want and the item least likely to produce anything defensible, because a camera in a dark building produces artefacts by the hundred and every artefact looks like evidence to somebody who wants it to. Sensor noise, lens flare, dust, moisture, insects, breath, IR hot spots, motion blur, and the compression the camera applies to its own footage all generate exactly the shapes that get posted.

Buy the tripod before the camera. Half of what is claimed from handheld footage disappears when the frame stops moving, and a tripod is also the only way two frames of the same corner can honestly be compared.

What we would not buy at all

  • Anything advertised as detecting spirits, energy, or presences. No such instrument exists. What exists is instruments that measure ordinary quantities and marketing that says otherwise.
  • Random-word generators sold as spirit boxes. A box with a vocabulary is a box that chose the vocabulary. If you want the effect honestly, our own tells you exactly what it is doing and prints the seed for every word it produces.
  • Dowsing rods, at any price above zero. Two lengths of coat hanger will demonstrate the ideomotor effect identically and the demonstration is worth doing.
  • Anything sold as a "ghost box app" with a numeric field reading. A web page cannot read your phone's magnetometer; the number is invented. This is worth checking before you trust anything else that app tells you.

The order matters more than the list

Everything above the EMF meter costs under £150 in total and improves every measurement you will ever take. Everything below it costs more and improves nothing until the things above it are in place.

The instruments on this station are all free and they run in a browser, so you can find out whether you actually enjoy the procedural half of this before you spend anything at all. That is genuinely what they are for. Start with the bench.

Questions

What equipment do I need to start ghost hunting?
A notebook and pen, a red-filtered torch, a carbon monoxide detector, a thermometer with a proper air probe, and a voice recorder that records uncompressed. That set will cost less than a single mid-range EMF meter and will do more for the quality of your results than anything else you can buy.
Is expensive ghost hunting equipment worth it?
Only after the cheap things are in place and being used properly. An instrument you cannot calibrate, cannot explain and have not baselined produces numbers that are worse than no numbers, because they look like evidence.
Do I need a full-spectrum camera?
Not at first, and possibly not ever. A full-spectrum conversion buys you sensitivity into the near infrared, which is genuinely useful with an IR illuminator in a dark building, and it also buys you a great many purple lens flares that get posted as evidence.